Somewhere up the Coast
School has just finished up and its been a while since the last post. I had been busy with school as well as work. Now that finals are over you can see what I have been up to......
Above is a photo from Blackies in Newport Beach Ca. A week or so ago it was nearly all time long lefts, barrels, and at least head high. Definitely some great storms are coming through thanks to this El Nino system(which is supposedly weak). Lately before I paddle out I have been shooting some photos thanks to a new 150-500mm lens I purchased just in time to document some all time waves and my upcoming trip to Portugal.
The same day I took the photo above I paddled out immediately after. Upon paddling out I, of course, didn't see a single one of these for the longest time. That being said I did see and end up getting a couple of them before the end of my session. I remember one specifically because it was a bigger set wave and one of my best barrels since Nicaragua. It was also on this new board I have been riding. The best description of the board is its a retro 80s fishy looking board with a swallow tail of course. Except it is set-up as a quad. Flat deck with a slight double concave, and yes its thick, and yes it works. In fact it works great. Which is where I will segway into this past weekend.
Right Now I am sitting on a couch at a good friends of mine, JJs, listening to music, watching surf videos, and relaxing post surf after surfing big unruly surf. But the days before today..... almost all time.
Bummed this photo was out of focus but I am glad I figured out the best settings for the lens and worked out the kinks. Should never been out of focus it was completely my fault but....
We have these ones to hang up in the room then.
All in all a great weekend of all time surf. Hopefully we can get something back at home before I leave for Portugal but I am not too worried about scoring surf before then. Now I am about to eat dinner then head home, hopefully no traffic, start packing for the trip across seas to see the Einstein brothers and score some beach break perfection.
In the meantime below is a mental one that we can debate about it being makable and then a video of a good friend of mine Trevor Oosterhof. In the video he talks about surf culture, shaping and other cool stuff. Check it out and stay tuned.