I'm back! It has been a little while and there has been a lot going on. I'll start off by saying barrels. Tubes! Another good size swell came through this last week and there were some good size barrels. Even on the smaller days sometimes the beach I live at just turns on and becomes super make-able. I have been pulling into some pretty huge close outs lately but only the ones that run for a couple seconds so you can get a nice long vision. Below are a couple shots I got of myself two days ago on the best day of this last swell.
The middle photo is me with a single fin I handshaped. I was talking to my buddy JJ and we realized that it was super funny that a couple weeks ago I was waiting for smaller surf to ride the board. Its a super fun board and I am stoked on how it rides. I just kept taking it out on smaller to medium size days because it is super fun to ride in barrels or in general. Then two nights ago........
As I was saying single fins are fun to ride in barrels.
Recently with these smaller days JJ, Zach, there friend Rachel have been preoccupying my free time at the Rancho del Mar(the Kersons ie JJs house). We have been surfing out front mostly but we went to a left point break the other day for a good change. It was fun no barrels though. A barrel a day keeps the doc away, so we went back out front later that day haha.
Later this week expect another quick post with the video from this next swell. Below is a photo of Don Simon contemplating the world.