Sitting at the Beach Club
It has been a fun week lots of surf and lots of close outs among other things. We had a good swell come through this past week that sent some good size surf. Unfortunately there was not many lefts but the right looked like Indo. I had one of my most fun sessions ever on the big day out front. There was literally nine people out; five goofy footers sitting on the left and four regular footers on the right. The left I was surfing was literally just a close out, a big close out, that had the occasional makeable gem roll on through. It was so fun we all were friends in the water trading off bomb after bomb. We each got a few and each got some pretty heavy wipeouts. Actually... the left close out did not provide that many wipe outs but the right... oh the right was insane. It was perfect, we saw Simon get some of the best waves I have seen him get this whole summer that day, Wednesday. Though he did get absolutely worked on one that sucked up on him cartwheeling him over the falls. By far the worst wipe out I have seen all summer until the next was my friend Codo. He tried paddling super deep into a eight foot slabbing one. The lip threw super fast grabbing him and drilling him to the bottom. He said that he got hog tied by his leash and dragged on the bottom as well. It was quite the spectacle.
As I was saying Simon got some really good ones. His brother and I were sitting down the beach on the left and we saw him take off on a good one, a really good one, there was no way his wasn't coming out of this one. That is until he decided to be a little cocky. He had plenty of room in the barrel. He could of stood tall if had set a different line but his line was high. And he stood up and got axed by the lip and drilled to the ground. Ok the wave wasn't really good.....it was perfect. He knows it too we didn't have to remind him of it either.
Also this past week my good friends Josh and Tyler(pictured) were in town and they were having a blast. I am stoked Tyler paddled out with me on the big day. He got a couple and got this shot to prove it.
Right now I am sitting right next to my friend Ivan. He paddled out early while I waited for the tide to push. I saw him get a really good one. Now were sitting at the beach club discussing the waves music and good times. Last night we were at another persons condo talking and he was playing some music with makeshift instruments. I leave in 10 days and it is pretty bitter sweet right now. We just ordered a coffee and once I drink some coffee and finish this I am going to surf. I am not in a rush. I feel like I have not spent enough time looking at the beauty of this wave. Such a good atmosphere. The tide is still a little low this morning but there are some really good ones coming through.
Ivan leaves six days after I do and Simon leaves two days after I do it is crazy to think that a group of people that has been here for an extended period of time all leaves at the same time. This by no means is my farewell bid yet. As we are still going to have a handful of waves good times and great conversations the last ten days. A month ago I had already realized this was the best summer of my life easily/by far and its going to be a tough one to match. I have spent over three months with the same people and soon will be distant from them. People I had never knew before. Looks like I am going to have to travel a lot more in the near future.
The banana bread and coffee from the beach club are great if anyone is wondering.
It is getting close to my time to surf. I am not in a rush though I have surfed at least six hours a day for the last couple days. It has been great. It will continue to be great the next couple days. One more week of warm water.
Well I will have to talk about my fishing trip and the one day of insanity we had later because my laptop battery is going to die. Have a great day. Its time to get barreled!!